Published: April 22, 2026
Getting your laser engraving settings right is the difference between a perfect engrave and a ruined piece of wood. Too much power and you char through the surface. Too little and the image barely shows. Too fast and the burn is faint and uneven. Too slow and you waste time or scorch the material.
This guide provides practical power and speed settings for the most common materials used with diode laser engravers. Every table below includes values for 3W, 5W, and 10W diode lasers — the three most common optical power classes in hobby machines from Sculpfun, Ortur, Atomstack, and others. These settings are starting points. Your specific machine, material batch, and focus quality will always require fine-tuning, which is why we also cover how to use a test grid to dial in your perfect values.
If you are brand new to laser engraving, start with our beginner's guide to laser engraving on Mac first, then come back here for the settings reference.
Every laser engraving job is controlled by three fundamental settings. Understanding what each one does — and how they interact — is essential before you start adjusting numbers.
Speed, also called feed rate, is how fast the laser head moves across the material, measured in mm/min. In G-code, this is the F value (e.g., G1 X100 F3000 means move to X=100 at 3000 mm/min). Typical engraving speeds for diode lasers range from 1000 to 6000 mm/min. Higher speed means less energy deposited per point, producing a lighter burn. Lower speed means more energy and a darker, deeper burn.
Power is the laser intensity, controlled by the S value in GRBL. The S value ranges from 0 (laser off) to the maximum defined by GRBL parameter $30, which is typically 1000. So S600 on a machine with $30=1000 means 60% power. Higher power burns darker and deeper. The relationship is roughly linear: doubling the power roughly doubles the energy deposited, though material response is not always linear.
Resolution determines how many horizontal lines the laser engraves per millimeter of vertical space. Common values range from 6 to 10 lines/mm. At 8 lines/mm, each line is 0.125 mm apart. Higher resolution produces finer detail but takes proportionally longer — a job at 10 lines/mm takes about 25% longer than the same job at 8 lines/mm. Resolution should roughly match your laser's spot size. Most diode lasers have a focused spot of 0.08-0.15 mm, making 8 lines/mm a good default.
These three parameters work together to determine the final result. Here is the key intuition:
In practice, you pick a speed first (based on how fast your machine can reliably move), then adjust power to get the darkness you want. Resolution is usually set once and left alone.
Wood is the most popular material for laser engraving. Different wood species respond very differently to laser energy. Softwoods like basswood and poplar engrave easily at low power, while dense hardwoods like oak and walnut need slower speeds or higher power. Plywood with adhesive layers can produce inconsistent results because the glue burns differently than the wood.
The following table shows recommended laser engraving settings for wood across three common laser power classes. All values assume the laser is properly focused and use 8 lines/mm resolution.
| Wood Type | 3W Laser | 5W Laser | 10W Laser |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basswood | 1500 mm/min, 60% | 3000 mm/min, 50% | 5000 mm/min, 35% |
| Plywood (3mm birch) | 1200 mm/min, 70% | 3000 mm/min, 60% | 5000 mm/min, 40% |
| Bamboo | 1000 mm/min, 75% | 2500 mm/min, 65% | 4000 mm/min, 45% |
| Pine / Poplar | 1500 mm/min, 55% | 3000 mm/min, 45% | 5000 mm/min, 30% |
| Oak / Walnut | 800 mm/min, 80% | 2000 mm/min, 70% | 4000 mm/min, 50% |
| MDF | 1200 mm/min, 65% | 2500 mm/min, 55% | 4500 mm/min, 40% |
These values are for engraving (surface marking). For cutting wood, see the Engraving vs Cutting section below. If you are engraving photos onto wood, check our guide on how to engrave photos on wood for image preparation tips and dithering algorithm selection.
Leather engraves beautifully with a diode laser, producing a rich dark contrast against the natural surface. Vegetable-tanned leather is the best choice — it produces clean, consistent burns with minimal odor. Chrome-tanned leather should be avoided entirely, as it releases toxic chromium compounds when heated. Suede engraves well but requires lower power to avoid cutting through the thinner material.
| Leather Type | 3W Laser | 5W Laser | 10W Laser |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vegetable-tanned (2-3mm) | 1500 mm/min, 40% | 3000 mm/min, 30% | 5000 mm/min, 20% |
| Suede (1mm) | 2000 mm/min, 25% | 3500 mm/min, 20% | 5000 mm/min, 15% |
Use 6 lines/mm resolution for leather instead of 8. The material chars easily, and higher resolution can over-burn between closely spaced lines. Always test on a scrap piece first — leather is expensive and there is no undoing a bad engrave.
Paper and cardboard require very low power. It is surprisingly easy to cut straight through instead of engraving. The key is high speed and minimal power. Cardstock (250-350 gsm) is more forgiving than regular printer paper.
| Material | 3W Laser | 5W Laser | 10W Laser |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cardboard (corrugated) | 2000 mm/min, 25% | 4000 mm/min, 15% | 5000 mm/min, 10% |
| Cardstock (300gsm) | 2500 mm/min, 15% | 4000 mm/min, 10% | 5000 mm/min, 8% |
Paper is flammable. Always supervise paper jobs and keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Use air assist if available — it blows flames away and produces cleaner edges.
Standard clear acrylic does not work with diode lasers. The 445nm blue wavelength passes right through transparent material without being absorbed. However, painted acrylic, black acrylic, and acrylic with a dark surface coating engrave well because the dark surface absorbs the laser energy.
| Acrylic Type | 3W Laser | 5W Laser | 10W Laser |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black acrylic (3mm) | 800 mm/min, 80% | 2000 mm/min, 65% | 3500 mm/min, 45% |
| Painted/coated acrylic | 1000 mm/min, 60% | 2500 mm/min, 50% | 4000 mm/min, 35% |
Use good ventilation when engraving acrylic. The fumes are unpleasant and potentially harmful. An enclosure with an exhaust fan is strongly recommended.
Diode lasers cannot engrave raw metal, but anodized aluminum is a popular exception. The laser removes or bleaches the colored anodized layer, revealing the bare aluminum underneath. The result is a bright silver mark on a dark background — clean, durable, and professional-looking.
| Material | 3W Laser | 5W Laser | 10W Laser |
|---|---|---|---|
| Anodized aluminum | 600 mm/min, 90% | 1500 mm/min, 80% | 3000 mm/min, 60% |
Use 10 lines/mm for anodized aluminum. The surface is hard and takes detail well, and the higher resolution produces a smoother, more complete removal of the anodized layer. Multiple passes at lower power can sometimes give cleaner results than a single high-power pass.
Natural slate is another material that works surprisingly well with diode lasers. The laser heats the surface and changes its color to a lighter shade, producing a ghostly white-on-gray image. Results vary significantly between slate pieces because the mineral composition is inconsistent.
| Material | 3W Laser | 5W Laser | 10W Laser |
|---|---|---|---|
| Slate (coaster/tile) | 600 mm/min, 100% | 1500 mm/min, 90% | 3000 mm/min, 70% |
| Ceramic tile (dark) | 500 mm/min, 100% | 1200 mm/min, 95% | 2500 mm/min, 75% |
Slate and stone need the most power of any material on this list. A 3W laser will work but requires very slow speeds. A 5W or 10W laser produces noticeably better contrast and faster results.
The settings above are all for engraving — marking the surface of a material. Cutting through material is a fundamentally different operation that uses different GRBL modes and parameters.
Engraving uses M4, GRBL's dynamic power mode. In M4 mode, GRBL automatically scales laser power based on actual movement speed. When the laser head slows down at corners or direction changes, the power drops proportionally to prevent over-burning those areas. This is essential for raster engraving where the head constantly accelerates and decelerates at the edges of each line.
Cutting uses M3, constant power mode. In M3, the laser outputs the exact power you specify regardless of movement speed. This ensures consistent energy delivery even when the head slows around curves and corners — exactly where you need full power to cut through. Cutting follows vector paths (SVG outlines) rather than raster lines.
| Material | 3W Laser | 5W Laser | 10W Laser |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plywood 3mm | 150 mm/min, 100%, 6 passes | 300 mm/min, 100%, 3 passes | 400 mm/min, 100%, 1 pass |
| Basswood 3mm | 200 mm/min, 100%, 4 passes | 300 mm/min, 100%, 2 passes | 500 mm/min, 100%, 1 pass |
| Black acrylic 3mm | 100 mm/min, 100%, 8 passes | 200 mm/min, 100%, 4 passes | 300 mm/min, 100%, 2 passes |
| Cardboard 2mm | 300 mm/min, 80%, 2 passes | 500 mm/min, 80%, 1 pass | 800 mm/min, 60%, 1 pass |
In Lùmen, the engrave layer automatically uses M4 and the cut layer uses M3. You can combine both in a single project — for example, engrave a design on a coaster and then cut the coaster outline in one job.
Tables and guides give you a starting point, but every machine, every lens, and every batch of material is slightly different. The most reliable way to find your optimal laser engraving power and speed settings is to run a test grid.
A test grid is a matrix of small engraved squares, each burned at a different speed/power combination. After the job finishes, you visually inspect the grid and pick the combination that looks best on your specific material.
A test grid takes 5-10 minutes and a small scrap of material. It will save you from ruining your actual workpiece and is the fastest way to perfect your settings for any new material.
For a 5W diode laser engraving on wood, start with 3000 mm/min speed, 60% power, and 8 lines/mm resolution. Softer woods like basswood need less power (40-50%), while hardwoods like oak may need slower speeds (2000 mm/min) or higher power (70-80%). Always run a test grid on a scrap piece first, as different wood species and even different boards of the same species can behave differently.
The most reliable method is to run a test grid. A test grid engraves a matrix of small squares at different power and speed combinations on your actual material. Lùmen has a built-in test grid generator that creates this calibration pattern automatically. Start with a broad range of values, then narrow down with a second grid around your preferred settings.
The S value in GRBL controls laser power (spindle speed). It ranges from 0 (off) to the value set in GRBL parameter $30 (usually 1000 or 255). For example, if $30=1000, then S500 means 50% power and S1000 means 100% power. In dynamic mode (M4), GRBL automatically scales the S value based on actual movement speed, so the laser outputs less power when the head slows down at corners.
Engraving uses high speed (1000-6000 mm/min), moderate power (30-80%), and dynamic power mode (M4 in GRBL) to burn images and text onto the surface. Cutting uses low speed (100-600 mm/min), maximum power (80-100%), constant power mode (M3), and often requires multiple passes. Engraving moves in a raster pattern, while cutting follows vector paths.
Dialing in your laser engraving settings does not have to be guesswork. Use the tables above as a starting point, run a test grid on your specific material, and you will have perfect results in minutes. Lùmen makes this workflow fast: built-in material presets give you sensible defaults, and the test grid generator lets you calibrate for any new material without leaving the app.
Lùmen is a one-time purchase of €9.99 with no subscription. It runs natively on macOS and supports all GRBL-based diode laser engravers.